The Elusive St. Paul Sandwich

Has anyone other than me noticed the lack of Chinese restaurants in South County, which still serve a St. Paul sandwich? I seem to recall a time in the not-too-distant past when you could go into any Chinese restaurant in the St. Louis metro area and get a delicious, perfectly-cooked, all-in-one-buffet of eggs, veggies and meat (beef, pork, chicken or shrimp) referred to as a St. Paul sandwich.

For me, the St. Paul has always been to St. Louis Chinese restaurants what Ted Drewes ice cream is to summer. In fact, I’m sure I’m not the only person who would miss the ubiquitous Chinese carry-out treat as much as Ted’s famous soft serve if it ever went completely away.

This issue came up recently when I was having a conversation with one of my co-workers from San Diego, California. Now, when I think of California, I think of a place that is steeped in the rich diversity of cultures and including all things Asian, and especially Asian foods. Isn’t that the birthplace of the St. Paul? Is the St. Paul Chinese? Asian? A real sandwich?

In fact, a little investment in culinary research, the hands-on variety, shows that the St. Paul is actually nothing more than an egg foo yung patty without the gravy and placed on white bread with lettuce, tomatoes and mayo. Sounds like the Chinese version of a BLT. Some websites even identify St. Louis as the birthplace of the St. Paul.

Well it seems my friend from San Diego had never heard of the St. Paul sandwich and as we discussed it more, along with its egg foo yung cousin, he became very interested in experiencing the delicacy for himself.

At that point we began making phone calls to local Chinese restaurants and searching their menus on the internet. I was shocked at our findings. Little or no sign of a St. Paul sandwich were either on the menus or in the minds of the folks we spoke with on the phone.

After describing the sandwich in great detail, I promised to help him locate a sample and promised myself I'd find a Chinese restaurant in South County where I can nosh on a regular basis.

The best St. Paul I ever had was at a Chinese restaurant appropriately named Fu Wah and near the intersection of Union and Bayless roads. Maybe some of you remember it? Their version of the St. Paul was the definition of what makes a good sandwich: crispy veggies with fresh shrimp stir fried and mixed with spicy scrambled eggs; then flash fried and dressed.

I’m sure there is some culinary purist turning up their nose right now at the thought of my St. Paul sandwich being described as Chinese food. Well, I don’t care if it is an Americanized imitation. For this south side boy, it’s as my friends say, “just good eatin'.”